Member Olaiya Oluseyi
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You can ensure the freshness of eggs before use through a few simple, reliable methods that test the quality of the shell, the integrity of the albumen (egg white), and the state of the yolk.
1. The Float Test (Water Test) 🥚
This is the most common and easiest test, based on the principle that the air cell inside an egg grows larger as the egg ages.
| Result | Indication | Status |
|—|—|—|
| Sinks to the bottom and lies flat on its side. | Very small air cell. | Freshest (ideal for poaching or frying). |
| Stands on its small end with the large end tilted up. | Air cell is slightly larger. | Good (perfect for all-purpose cooking and boiling). |
| Floats to the surface. | Large air cell due to significant moisture loss. | Old (should be discarded). |
2. The Shake Test
Hold the egg close to your ear and gently shake it.
* Fresh Egg: You should hear nothing or a very minimal sound. The albumen is thick and holds the yolk tightly in place.
* Old Egg: You will hear the contents sloshing or shifting inside. As an egg ages, the thick albumen breaks down, becoming thin and watery, allowing the yolk to move freely.
3. The Appearance Test (Cracking the Egg) 🍳
This provides the definitive visual proof of freshness once the egg is cracked open onto a flat surface.
| Feature | Fresh Egg | Old Egg |
|—|—|—|
| Albumen (White) | Thick, stands up high around the yolk in two distinct layers. | Thin, watery, and spreads out quickly and widely. |
| Yolk | Round, firm, high, and well-centered. | Flat, easily broken, and may drift away from the center. |
| Chalazae (White strands) | Prominent and clearly visible. | Absent or deteriorated. |
4. The Candling Method
While typically used in commercial operations, you can use a bright flashlight (candler) in a dark room:
* Hold the egg up to the light.
* Fresh Egg: The contents will look clear, and the air cell will be very small (no larger than a dime).
* Old Egg: The air cell will appear conspicuously large.
Note: Always check the “best by” or expiration date on the carton, and store eggs in their original carton on an inner shelf of the refrigerator, not on the door, to maintain a consistent cool temperature.You can ensure the freshness of eggs before use through a few simple, reliable methods that test the quality of the shell, the integrity of the albumen (egg white), and the state of the yolk.
1. The Float Test (Water Test) 🥚
This is the most common and easiest test, based on the principle that the air cell inside an egg grows larger as the egg ages.
| Result | Indication | Status |
|—|—|—|
| Sinks to the bottom and lies flat on its side. | Very small air cell. | Freshest (ideal for poaching or frying). |
| Stands on its small end with the large end tilted up. | Air cell is slightly larger. | Good (perfect for all-purpose cooking and boiling). |
| Floats to the surface. | Large air cell due to significant moisture loss. | Old (should be discarded). |
2. The Shake Test
Hold the egg close to your ear and gently shake it.
* Fresh Egg: You should hear nothing or a very minimal sound. The albumen is thick and holds the yolk tightly in place.
* Old Egg: You will hear the contents sloshing or shifting inside. As an egg ages, the thick albumen breaks down, becoming thin and watery, allowing the yolk to move freely.
3. The Appearance Test (Cracking the Egg) 🍳
This provides the definitive visual proof of freshness once the egg is cracked open onto a flat surface.
| Feature | Fresh Egg | Old Egg |
|—|—|—|
| Albumen (White) | Thick, stands up high around the yolk in two distinct layers. | Thin, watery, and spreads out quickly and widely. |
| Yolk | Round, firm, high, and well-centered. | Flat, easily broken, and may drift away from the center. |
| Chalazae (White strands) | Prominent and clearly visible. | Absent or deteriorated. |
4. The Candling Method
While typically used in commercial operations, you can use a bright flashlight (candler) in a dark room:
* Hold the egg up to the light.
* Fresh Egg: The contents will look clear, and the air cell will be very small (no larger than a dime).
* Old Egg: The air cell will appear conspicuously large.
Note: Always check the “best by” or expiration date on the carton, and store eggs in their original carton on an inner shelf of the refrigerator, not on the door, to maintain a consistent cool temperature. -
The most impactful single thing you can do to improve hatchability results on your farm is to ensure optimal egg storage conditions before incubation.
Optimal Egg Storage Conditions 🥚
Hatchability begins to decline rapidly the moment the egg is laid if it is not stored correctly. Maintaining the right environment is crucial for preserving the vitality of the embryo.
| Storage Factor | Optimal Range | Why it Matters |
|—|—|—|
| Temperature | 60^\circ \text{F} to 65^\circ \text{F} (15.5^\circ \text{C} to 18.3^\circ \text{C}) | This temperature range is known as “physiological zero.” It is cool enough to suspend embryonic development without killing the embryo, preserving its energy reserves for the incubator. |
| Humidity | 75\% to 85\% Relative Humidity (RH) | High humidity prevents excessive moisture loss from the egg. Rapid moisture loss leads to a large air cell and an embryo that is dehydrated before incubation even begins, which severely lowers hatchability. |
| Storage Time | Maximum 7 to 10 days | Hatchability decreases by approximately 0.5% to 1.5% per day after 7 days of storage. The shorter the storage time, the better the result. |
| Egg Position | Small end up | Storing the egg with the small end up helps keep the yolk (and the light, floating embryo) centered and prevents the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. |
By strictly controlling these storage conditions, you minimize embryo deterioration, ensuring the eggs enter the incubator with the highest possible viability.The most impactful single thing you can do to improve hatchability results on your farm is to ensure optimal egg storage conditions before incubation.
Optimal Egg Storage Conditions 🥚
Hatchability begins to decline rapidly the moment the egg is laid if it is not stored correctly. Maintaining the right environment is crucial for preserving the vitality of the embryo.
| Storage Factor | Optimal Range | Why it Matters |
|—|—|—|
| Temperature | 60^\circ \text{F} to 65^\circ \text{F} (15.5^\circ \text{C} to 18.3^\circ \text{C}) | This temperature range is known as “physiological zero.” It is cool enough to suspend embryonic development without killing the embryo, preserving its energy reserves for the incubator. |
| Humidity | 75\% to 85\% Relative Humidity (RH) | High humidity prevents excessive moisture loss from the egg. Rapid moisture loss leads to a large air cell and an embryo that is dehydrated before incubation even begins, which severely lowers hatchability. |
| Storage Time | Maximum 7 to 10 days | Hatchability decreases by approximately 0.5% to 1.5% per day after 7 days of storage. The shorter the storage time, the better the result. |
| Egg Position | Small end up | Storing the egg with the small end up helps keep the yolk (and the light, floating embryo) centered and prevents the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. |
By strictly controlling these storage conditions, you minimize embryo deterioration, ensuring the eggs enter the incubator with the highest possible viability. -
Ways to mitigate heat stress in broilers fall into three main categories: Environmental Management (Housing), Water/Electrolyte Management, and Nutritional Adjustments. The goal is to maximize heat loss and minimize the bird’s own heat production.
1. Environmental Management (Housing and Airflow) 🏠
These methods focus on reducing the temperature inside the poultry house and increasing the bird’s ability to cool itself via convection and evaporation.
* Ventilation and Airflow:
* Increase Air Speed: Use tunnel ventilation (in closed houses) and circulation fans to create a strong “wind-chill” effect over the birds. This increases heat loss via convection.
* Optimize Fans: Ensure exhaust fans are running at full capacity and all inlets/outlets are functioning to achieve frequent air exchange (replacing hot, humid air with cooler outside air).
* Cooling Systems:
* Evaporative Cooling: Install cooling pads (cool cells) or fogging/misting systems to lower the temperature of the incoming air. As water evaporates, it draws heat out of the air.
* Insulation and Reflection:
* Insulate Roofs and Walls: Good insulation prevents heat from the sun from radiating into the house.
* Reflective Surfaces: Paint the roof white or use reflective coatings to deflect solar radiation.
* Reduce Stocking Density: Lower the number of birds per square meter to reduce the total heat load produced by the flock and improve individual air access.
2. Water and Electrolyte Management 💧
Since broilers rely on panting (evaporative cooling) to dissipate heat, water is the single most critical nutrient during a heat wave.
* Provide Cool Water: Ensure birds have constant access to water that is as cool as possible. Flush water lines frequently during the hottest parts of the day to remove warm, stagnant water.
* Electrolyte Supplementation: Add electrolytes (salts of sodium, potassium, and chloride) to the drinking water. Panting causes the bird to exhale large amounts of carbon dioxide, disrupting the blood’s acid-base balance. Electrolytes help restore this balance, preventing dehydration and metabolic stress.
* Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Supplementing the water or feed with Vitamin C helps maintain adrenal gland function and reduce the negative physiological effects of stress hormones.
3. Nutritional Adjustments 🥕
Dietary changes focus on reducing the “heat increment” (the heat generated by the bird’s body while digesting food) and ensuring nutrient intake is maintained despite reduced appetite.
* Shift Feeding Schedule: Feed birds during the cooler parts of the day (early morning and late evening) and restrict feed intake during peak heat hours. This allows them to digest when the ambient temperature is lower.
* Increase Nutrient Density: Since broilers eat less during heat stress, increase the concentration of key nutrients (energy and digestible amino acids) in the feed.
* Reduce Excess Protein: Lower the total level of crude protein in the feed and compensate with supplemental, synthetic limiting amino acids (like lysine and methionine). Digesting excess protein produces more metabolic heat (a higher heat increment) than digesting carbohydrates or fats.
* Increase Dietary Fat: Fat has the lowest heat increment of all major nutrients (protein, carbohydrates, and fat), making it a beneficial energy source during hot periods.Ways to mitigate heat stress in broilers fall into three main categories: Environmental Management (Housing), Water/Electrolyte Management, and Nutritional Adjustments. The goal is to maximize heat loss and minimize the bird’s own heat production.
1. Environmental Management (Housing and Airflow) 🏠
These methods focus on reducing the temperature inside the poultry house and increasing the bird’s ability to cool itself via convection and evaporation.
* Ventilation and Airflow:
* Increase Air Speed: Use tunnel ventilation (in closed houses) and circulation fans to create a strong “wind-chill” effect over the birds. This increases heat loss via convection.
* Optimize Fans: Ensure exhaust fans are running at full capacity and all inlets/outlets are functioning to achieve frequent air exchange (replacing hot, humid air with cooler outside air).
* Cooling Systems:
* Evaporative Cooling: Install cooling pads (cool cells) or fogging/misting systems to lower the temperature of the incoming air. As water evaporates, it draws heat out of the air.
* Insulation and Reflection:
* Insulate Roofs and Walls: Good insulation prevents heat from the sun from radiating into the house.
* Reflective Surfaces: Paint the roof white or use reflective coatings to deflect solar radiation.
* Reduce Stocking Density: Lower the number of birds per square meter to reduce the total heat load produced by the flock and improve individual air access.
2. Water and Electrolyte Management 💧
Since broilers rely on panting (evaporative cooling) to dissipate heat, water is the single most critical nutrient during a heat wave.
* Provide Cool Water: Ensure birds have constant access to water that is as cool as possible. Flush water lines frequently during the hottest parts of the day to remove warm, stagnant water.
* Electrolyte Supplementation: Add electrolytes (salts of sodium, potassium, and chloride) to the drinking water. Panting causes the bird to exhale large amounts of carbon dioxide, disrupting the blood’s acid-base balance. Electrolytes help restore this balance, preventing dehydration and metabolic stress.
* Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Supplementing the water or feed with Vitamin C helps maintain adrenal gland function and reduce the negative physiological effects of stress hormones.
3. Nutritional Adjustments 🥕
Dietary changes focus on reducing the “heat increment” (the heat generated by the bird’s body while digesting food) and ensuring nutrient intake is maintained despite reduced appetite.
* Shift Feeding Schedule: Feed birds during the cooler parts of the day (early morning and late evening) and restrict feed intake during peak heat hours. This allows them to digest when the ambient temperature is lower.
* Increase Nutrient Density: Since broilers eat less during heat stress, increase the concentration of key nutrients (energy and digestible amino acids) in the feed.
* Reduce Excess Protein: Lower the total level of crude protein in the feed and compensate with supplemental, synthetic limiting amino acids (like lysine and methionine). Digesting excess protein produces more metabolic heat (a higher heat increment) than digesting carbohydrates or fats.
* Increase Dietary Fat: Fat has the lowest heat increment of all major nutrients (protein, carbohydrates, and fat), making it a beneficial energy source during hot periods. -
I have a feeding formula with a particular brand of feed that enables me to get above 2.5kg at 5 weeks
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Thanks for the detailed explanation
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Thanks for sharing
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Thanks, well detailed explanation
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Excellent, thanks for the explanation
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Good
Sharing knowledge
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Nice sharing
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Common <strong data-start=”7″ data-end=”27″>poultry diseases include <strong data-start=”36″ data-end=”139″>Newcastle disease, Infectious Bronchitis, Gumboro (IBD), Marek’s disease, Fowl pox, and Coccidiosis.
They can be prevented by:
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<strong data-start=”175″ data-end=”199″>Vaccination programs at proper ages.
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<strong data-start=”221″ data-end=”243″>Strict biosecurity – limit visitors, disinfect regularly.
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<strong data-start=”288″ data-end=”321″>Clean water and balanced feed to boost immunity.
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<strong data-start=”346″ data-end=”388″>Good ventilation and litter management to reduce stress and infection risk.
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<strong data-start=”431″ data-end=”456″>Regular health checks and early isolation of sick birds.Common poultry diseases include Newcastle disease, Infectious Bronchitis, Gumboro (IBD), Marek’s disease, Fowl pox, and Coccidiosis.
They can be prevented by:
Vaccination programs at proper ages.
Strict biosecurity – limit visitors, disinfect regularly.
Clean water and balanced feed to boost immunity.
Good ventilation and litter management to reduce stress and infection risk.
Regular health checks and early isolation of sick birds.
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Thanks for sharing.
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🌾 – A Simple Tool with Big Impact 🐔
Consistent litter monitoring is crucial for maintaining flock health and performance. A quick and effective way to assess litter is by scoring moisture and friability.
✅ Why it matters:
Detects early issues with drinker systems or ventilation.
Prevents wet litter problems, caking, and ammonia buildup.
Supports better footpad health and bird comfort.
Informs timely management interventions.
📊 Litter Score Guide (1–5):
1 (Ideal) – Dry & friable: free flowing, birds comfortable.
2–3 – Early signs of moisture or clumping: monitor closely.
4–5 (Critical) – Wet or caked litter: increased disease and welfare risks.
📝 Moisture Levels:
Dry: <25% moisture
Moist: 25–35% moisture
Wet: >35% moisture
💡 Friability Check:
Friable → Clumping → Caked (progressive loss of litter quality)
📍 Regular checks under drinker lines and along cool pads help catch problems early before they escalate.
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To minimize production downtime during maintenance and cleaning:
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<strong data-start=”71″ data-end=”106″>Schedule preventive maintenance during low-demand or off-peak hours.
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<strong data-start=”149″ data-end=”184″>Use modular or parallel systems so one line runs while another is cleaned.
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<strong data-start=”233″ data-end=”266″>Implement quick-clean designs (easy-access panels, CIP systems).
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<strong data-start=”307″ data-end=”322″>Train staff for efficient maintenance routines and fast changeovers.
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<strong data-start=”385″ data-end=”422″>Keep critical spare parts on hand to avoid long repair delays.
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<strong data-start=”457″ data-end=”499″>Plan cleaning and maintenance together to reduce repeated stoppages.To minimize production downtime during maintenance and cleaning:
Schedule preventive maintenance during low-demand or off-peak hours.
Use modular or parallel systems so one line runs while another is cleaned.
Implement quick-clean designs (easy-access panels, CIP systems).
Train staff for efficient maintenance routines and fast changeovers.
Keep critical spare parts on hand to avoid long repair delays.
Plan cleaning and maintenance together to reduce repeated stoppages.
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This is good
