[Oyewale Oyemomi]

Thank you sir. please, how long should egg stay an an “ideal egg store”?

[Dorcas]

The water float test has actually worked for me a lot of times

[Dorcas]

Thank you

[Muhammad Ahmad]

The most effective approach to boost uniformity and growth during the first 10 days of brooding focuses on two critical factors: maximizing early feed and water intake and ensuring perfect floor temperature. This combined strategy is often referred to as providing the chicks with a “perfect start.”

1. Maximize Early Feed & Water Intake (The First 48 Hours) 🍗

The first 48 hours are crucial, as feed intake during this time directly correlates with mature body weight and uniformity.

* Ensure Immediate Access: Place feed and water directly in the chicks’ travel path. Use supplemental feeders (chick trays or paper) and water founts in addition to the regular line equipment. The goal is to have feed and water accessible to 90% of the chicks immediately.

* High-Quality Starter Feed: Use a highly palatable, high-nutrient density crumb or mini-pellet starter feed. The physical quality (minimal dust) and high protein/amino acid content drive early growth.

* Stimulate Activity: Use bright, continuous lighting (23 hours of light) for the first 3-5 days to encourage constant activity, exploration, and eating.

2. Achieve Perfect Floor Temperature (The “Feel Test”) 🌡️

Uniformity is often lost when chicks cluster together because they are cold, or move away from the heat source because they are too hot. The chicks themselves are the best thermometer.

* Target Temperature: The environmental temperature for Day 1 should be around 90^\circ \text{F} to 92^\circ \text{F} (32^\circ \text{C} to 33^\circ \text{C}) at chick level, but the floor temperature is even more critical.

* Pre-heating: Start pre-heating the house at least 24 to 48 hours before chick arrival to ensure the concrete or litter is warmed to a minimum of 82^\circ \text{F} to 86^\circ \text{F} (28^\circ \text{C} to 30^\circ \text{C}). Cold floors chill chicks rapidly.

* Monitor Behavior:

* Uniformly Dispersed: The chicks are comfortable and the temperature is right. (Goal achieved )

* Clustering: Chicks are cold—increase the temperature or address drafts.

* Panting/Spreading to Walls: Chicks are too hot—decrease the temperature or improve ventilation.

3. Brooding Space and Air Quality

* Limit Brooding Area: Start with a smaller, clearly defined brooding area (brood ring or end of the house) to easily maintain temperature and keep feed/water close. Expand this area gradually as the chicks grow and the required temperature drops.

* Ventilation for Air Quality: Even when heating, ensure minimum essential ventilation to remove moisture, ammonia, and \text{CO}_2. Poor air quality stresses chicks and hinders lung development, negatively impacting long-term growth.The most effective approach to boost uniformity and growth during the first 10 days of brooding focuses on two critical factors: maximizing early feed and water intake and ensuring perfect floor temperature. This combined strategy is often referred to as providing the chicks with a “perfect start.”
1. Maximize Early Feed & Water Intake (The First 48 Hours) 🍗
The first 48 hours are crucial, as feed intake during this time directly correlates with mature body weight and uniformity.
* Ensure Immediate Access: Place feed and water directly in the chicks’ travel path. Use supplemental feeders (chick trays or paper) and water founts in addition to the regular line equipment. The goal is to have feed and water accessible to 90% of the chicks immediately.
* High-Quality Starter Feed: Use a highly palatable, high-nutrient density crumb or mini-pellet starter feed. The physical quality (minimal dust) and high protein/amino acid content drive early growth.
* Stimulate Activity: Use bright, continuous lighting (23 hours of light) for the first 3-5 days to encourage constant activity, exploration, and eating.
2. Achieve Perfect Floor Temperature (The “Feel Test”) 🌡️
Uniformity is often lost when chicks cluster together because they are cold, or move away from the heat source because they are too hot. The chicks themselves are the best thermometer.
* Target Temperature: The environmental temperature for Day 1 should be around 90^\circ \text{F} to 92^\circ \text{F} (32^\circ \text{C} to 33^\circ \text{C}) at chick level, but the floor temperature is even more critical.
* Pre-heating: Start pre-heating the house at least 24 to 48 hours before chick arrival to ensure the concrete or litter is warmed to a minimum of 82^\circ \text{F} to 86^\circ \text{F} (28^\circ \text{C} to 30^\circ \text{C}). Cold floors chill chicks rapidly.
* Monitor Behavior:
* Uniformly Dispersed: The chicks are comfortable and the temperature is right. (Goal achieved )
* Clustering: Chicks are cold—increase the temperature or address drafts.
* Panting/Spreading to Walls: Chicks are too hot—decrease the temperature or improve ventilation.
3. Brooding Space and Air Quality
* Limit Brooding Area: Start with a smaller, clearly defined brooding area (brood ring or end of the house) to easily maintain temperature and keep feed/water close. Expand this area gradually as the chicks grow and the required temperature drops.
* Ventilation for Air Quality: Even when heating, ensure minimum essential ventilation to remove moisture, ammonia, and \text{CO}_2. Poor air quality stresses chicks and hinders lung development, negatively impacting long-term growth.

[Muhammad Ahmad]

You can ensure the freshness of eggs before use through a few simple, reliable methods that test the quality of the shell, the integrity of the albumen (egg white), and the state of the yolk.

1. The Float Test (Water Test) 🥚

This is the most common and easiest test, based on the principle that the air cell inside an egg grows larger as the egg ages.

| Result | Indication | Status |

|—|—|—|

| Sinks to the bottom and lies flat on its side. | Very small air cell. | Freshest (ideal for poaching or frying). |

| Stands on its small end with the large end tilted up. | Air cell is slightly larger. | Good (perfect for all-purpose cooking and boiling). |

| Floats to the surface. | Large air cell due to significant moisture loss. | Old (should be discarded). |

2. The Shake Test

Hold the egg close to your ear and gently shake it.

* Fresh Egg: You should hear nothing or a very minimal sound. The albumen is thick and holds the yolk tightly in place.

* Old Egg: You will hear the contents sloshing or shifting inside. As an egg ages, the thick albumen breaks down, becoming thin and watery, allowing the yolk to move freely.

3. The Appearance Test (Cracking the Egg) 🍳

This provides the definitive visual proof of freshness once the egg is cracked open onto a flat surface.

| Feature | Fresh Egg | Old Egg |

|—|—|—|

| Albumen (White) | Thick, stands up high around the yolk in two distinct layers. | Thin, watery, and spreads out quickly and widely. |

| Yolk | Round, firm, high, and well-centered. | Flat, easily broken, and may drift away from the center. |

| Chalazae (White strands) | Prominent and clearly visible. | Absent or deteriorated. |

4. The Candling Method

While typically used in commercial operations, you can use a bright flashlight (candler) in a dark room:

* Hold the egg up to the light.

* Fresh Egg: The contents will look clear, and the air cell will be very small (no larger than a dime).

* Old Egg: The air cell will appear conspicuously large.

Note: Always check the “best by” or expiration date on the carton, and store eggs in their original carton on an inner shelf of the refrigerator, not on the door, to maintain a consistent cool temperature.You can ensure the freshness of eggs before use through a few simple, reliable methods that test the quality of the shell, the integrity of the albumen (egg white), and the state of the yolk.
1. The Float Test (Water Test) 🥚
This is the most common and easiest test, based on the principle that the air cell inside an egg grows larger as the egg ages.
| Result | Indication | Status |
|—|—|—|
| Sinks to the bottom and lies flat on its side. | Very small air cell. | Freshest (ideal for poaching or frying). |
| Stands on its small end with the large end tilted up. | Air cell is slightly larger. | Good (perfect for all-purpose cooking and boiling). |
| Floats to the surface. | Large air cell due to significant moisture loss. | Old (should be discarded). |
2. The Shake Test
Hold the egg close to your ear and gently shake it.
* Fresh Egg: You should hear nothing or a very minimal sound. The albumen is thick and holds the yolk tightly in place.
* Old Egg: You will hear the contents sloshing or shifting inside. As an egg ages, the thick albumen breaks down, becoming thin and watery, allowing the yolk to move freely.
3. The Appearance Test (Cracking the Egg) 🍳
This provides the definitive visual proof of freshness once the egg is cracked open onto a flat surface.
| Feature | Fresh Egg | Old Egg |
|—|—|—|
| Albumen (White) | Thick, stands up high around the yolk in two distinct layers. | Thin, watery, and spreads out quickly and widely. |
| Yolk | Round, firm, high, and well-centered. | Flat, easily broken, and may drift away from the center. |
| Chalazae (White strands) | Prominent and clearly visible. | Absent or deteriorated. |
4. The Candling Method
While typically used in commercial operations, you can use a bright flashlight (candler) in a dark room:
* Hold the egg up to the light.
* Fresh Egg: The contents will look clear, and the air cell will be very small (no larger than a dime).
* Old Egg: The air cell will appear conspicuously large.
Note: Always check the “best by” or expiration date on the carton, and store eggs in their original carton on an inner shelf of the refrigerator, not on the door, to maintain a consistent cool temperature.

[Oyewale Oyemomi]

wow, incredibly detailed. Thank you sir

[Muhammad Ahmad]

The most impactful single thing you can do to improve hatchability results on your farm is to ensure optimal egg storage conditions before incubation.

Optimal Egg Storage Conditions 🥚

Hatchability begins to decline rapidly the moment the egg is laid if it is not stored correctly. Maintaining the right environment is crucial for preserving the vitality of the embryo.

| Storage Factor | Optimal Range | Why it Matters |

|—|—|—|

| Temperature | 60^\circ \text{F} to 65^\circ \text{F} (15.5^\circ \text{C} to 18.3^\circ \text{C}) | This temperature range is known as “physiological zero.” It is cool enough to suspend embryonic development without killing the embryo, preserving its energy reserves for the incubator. |

| Humidity | 75\% to 85\% Relative Humidity (RH) | High humidity prevents excessive moisture loss from the egg. Rapid moisture loss leads to a large air cell and an embryo that is dehydrated before incubation even begins, which severely lowers hatchability. |

| Storage Time | Maximum 7 to 10 days | Hatchability decreases by approximately 0.5% to 1.5% per day after 7 days of storage. The shorter the storage time, the better the result. |

| Egg Position | Small end up | Storing the egg with the small end up helps keep the yolk (and the light, floating embryo) centered and prevents the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. |

By strictly controlling these storage conditions, you minimize embryo deterioration, ensuring the eggs enter the incubator with the highest possible viability.The most impactful single thing you can do to improve hatchability results on your farm is to ensure optimal egg storage conditions before incubation.
Optimal Egg Storage Conditions 🥚
Hatchability begins to decline rapidly the moment the egg is laid if it is not stored correctly. Maintaining the right environment is crucial for preserving the vitality of the embryo.
| Storage Factor | Optimal Range | Why it Matters |
|—|—|—|
| Temperature | 60^\circ \text{F} to 65^\circ \text{F} (15.5^\circ \text{C} to 18.3^\circ \text{C}) | This temperature range is known as “physiological zero.” It is cool enough to suspend embryonic development without killing the embryo, preserving its energy reserves for the incubator. |
| Humidity | 75\% to 85\% Relative Humidity (RH) | High humidity prevents excessive moisture loss from the egg. Rapid moisture loss leads to a large air cell and an embryo that is dehydrated before incubation even begins, which severely lowers hatchability. |
| Storage Time | Maximum 7 to 10 days | Hatchability decreases by approximately 0.5% to 1.5% per day after 7 days of storage. The shorter the storage time, the better the result. |
| Egg Position | Small end up | Storing the egg with the small end up helps keep the yolk (and the light, floating embryo) centered and prevents the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. |
By strictly controlling these storage conditions, you minimize embryo deterioration, ensuring the eggs enter the incubator with the highest possible viability.

[Muhammad Ahmad]

Ways to mitigate heat stress in broilers fall into three main categories: Environmental Management (Housing), Water/Electrolyte Management, and Nutritional Adjustments. The goal is to maximize heat loss and minimize the bird’s own heat production.

1. Environmental Management (Housing and Airflow) 🏠

These methods focus on reducing the temperature inside the poultry house and increasing the bird’s ability to cool itself via convection and evaporation.

* Ventilation and Airflow:

* Increase Air Speed: Use tunnel ventilation (in closed houses) and circulation fans to create a strong “wind-chill” effect over the birds. This increases heat loss via convection.

* Optimize Fans: Ensure exhaust fans are running at full capacity and all inlets/outlets are functioning to achieve frequent air exchange (replacing hot, humid air with cooler outside air).

* Cooling Systems:

* Evaporative Cooling: Install cooling pads (cool cells) or fogging/misting systems to lower the temperature of the incoming air. As water evaporates, it draws heat out of the air.

* Insulation and Reflection:

* Insulate Roofs and Walls: Good insulation prevents heat from the sun from radiating into the house.

* Reflective Surfaces: Paint the roof white or use reflective coatings to deflect solar radiation.

* Reduce Stocking Density: Lower the number of birds per square meter to reduce the total heat load produced by the flock and improve individual air access.

2. Water and Electrolyte Management 💧

Since broilers rely on panting (evaporative cooling) to dissipate heat, water is the single most critical nutrient during a heat wave.

* Provide Cool Water: Ensure birds have constant access to water that is as cool as possible. Flush water lines frequently during the hottest parts of the day to remove warm, stagnant water.

* Electrolyte Supplementation: Add electrolytes (salts of sodium, potassium, and chloride) to the drinking water. Panting causes the bird to exhale large amounts of carbon dioxide, disrupting the blood’s acid-base balance. Electrolytes help restore this balance, preventing dehydration and metabolic stress.

* Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Supplementing the water or feed with Vitamin C helps maintain adrenal gland function and reduce the negative physiological effects of stress hormones.

3. Nutritional Adjustments 🥕

Dietary changes focus on reducing the “heat increment” (the heat generated by the bird’s body while digesting food) and ensuring nutrient intake is maintained despite reduced appetite.

* Shift Feeding Schedule: Feed birds during the cooler parts of the day (early morning and late evening) and restrict feed intake during peak heat hours. This allows them to digest when the ambient temperature is lower.

* Increase Nutrient Density: Since broilers eat less during heat stress, increase the concentration of key nutrients (energy and digestible amino acids) in the feed.

* Reduce Excess Protein: Lower the total level of crude protein in the feed and compensate with supplemental, synthetic limiting amino acids (like lysine and methionine). Digesting excess protein produces more metabolic heat (a higher heat increment) than digesting carbohydrates or fats.

* Increase Dietary Fat: Fat has the lowest heat increment of all major nutrients (protein, carbohydrates, and fat), making it a beneficial energy source during hot periods.Ways to mitigate heat stress in broilers fall into three main categories: Environmental Management (Housing), Water/Electrolyte Management, and Nutritional Adjustments. The goal is to maximize heat loss and minimize the bird’s own heat production.
1. Environmental Management (Housing and Airflow) 🏠
These methods focus on reducing the temperature inside the poultry house and increasing the bird’s ability to cool itself via convection and evaporation.
* Ventilation and Airflow:
* Increase Air Speed: Use tunnel ventilation (in closed houses) and circulation fans to create a strong “wind-chill” effect over the birds. This increases heat loss via convection.
* Optimize Fans: Ensure exhaust fans are running at full capacity and all inlets/outlets are functioning to achieve frequent air exchange (replacing hot, humid air with cooler outside air).
* Cooling Systems:
* Evaporative Cooling: Install cooling pads (cool cells) or fogging/misting systems to lower the temperature of the incoming air. As water evaporates, it draws heat out of the air.
* Insulation and Reflection:
* Insulate Roofs and Walls: Good insulation prevents heat from the sun from radiating into the house.
* Reflective Surfaces: Paint the roof white or use reflective coatings to deflect solar radiation.
* Reduce Stocking Density: Lower the number of birds per square meter to reduce the total heat load produced by the flock and improve individual air access.
2. Water and Electrolyte Management 💧
Since broilers rely on panting (evaporative cooling) to dissipate heat, water is the single most critical nutrient during a heat wave.
* Provide Cool Water: Ensure birds have constant access to water that is as cool as possible. Flush water lines frequently during the hottest parts of the day to remove warm, stagnant water.
* Electrolyte Supplementation: Add electrolytes (salts of sodium, potassium, and chloride) to the drinking water. Panting causes the bird to exhale large amounts of carbon dioxide, disrupting the blood’s acid-base balance. Electrolytes help restore this balance, preventing dehydration and metabolic stress.
* Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Supplementing the water or feed with Vitamin C helps maintain adrenal gland function and reduce the negative physiological effects of stress hormones.
3. Nutritional Adjustments 🥕
Dietary changes focus on reducing the “heat increment” (the heat generated by the bird’s body while digesting food) and ensuring nutrient intake is maintained despite reduced appetite.
* Shift Feeding Schedule: Feed birds during the cooler parts of the day (early morning and late evening) and restrict feed intake during peak heat hours. This allows them to digest when the ambient temperature is lower.
* Increase Nutrient Density: Since broilers eat less during heat stress, increase the concentration of key nutrients (energy and digestible amino acids) in the feed.
* Reduce Excess Protein: Lower the total level of crude protein in the feed and compensate with supplemental, synthetic limiting amino acids (like lysine and methionine). Digesting excess protein produces more metabolic heat (a higher heat increment) than digesting carbohydrates or fats.
* Increase Dietary Fat: Fat has the lowest heat increment of all major nutrients (protein, carbohydrates, and fat), making it a beneficial energy source during hot periods.

[Abu]

I have a feeding formula with a particular brand of feed that enables me to get above 2.5kg at 5 weeks

[Olayiwola]

Thanks for the detailed explanation

[Olayiwola]

Thanks for sharing

[Olayiwola]

Thanks, well detailed explanation

[Olayiwola]

Excellent, thanks for the explanation

[Muhammad Ahmad]

Good

Sharing knowledge

[Abu]

This is good